Dali - 1er jour
Samedi 7 juillet.
Après avoir été réveillé à 6h par notre hôtesse, nous avons pu débarquer à 6h30 (le train était à l'heure ^^) dans la ville de Dali, à 348km à l'ouest de Kunming, autour du lac Erhai, à 1900m d'altitude. Enfin, pour être précis, nous sommes arrivés à Xiaguan, la ville moderne, et nous avons dû prendre un bus de ville (le premier qu'on a vu) pour rallier en 30 minutes la vieille ville de Dali, ainsi que notre auberge, du même nom que la précédente (mais seulement 18 kuais la nuit !).
Vu qu'il était encore tôt (7h30), nous avons pu nous balader tranquillement dans les antiques rues de la ville, aux décors de film chinois, qui donnaient une impression de ville hors du temps.
À peine deux heures plus tard, des flots de touristiques ont commencé à se déverser dans la ville, mais comme ils étaient équipés d'oreillettes (et non de mégaphones), ça passait.
Comme d'habitude, en s'écartant de 50 mètres des rues principales, on peut trouver un petit marché local plein de charme vendant fruits, légumes, viandes et poissons. Et après la mosquée chinoise de Xi'an, on a trouvé l'église chinoise de Dali. Nice.
Après avoir fait le tour (ce qui nous a pris trois bonnes heures), nous sommes repassé à l'auberge nous changer afin de partir en excursion à vélo autour du lac. Même si l'auberge nous annonçait 2 jours pour faire le tour, on n’avait pas peur, donc on est allé louer des vélos (30 kuais la journée pour un bon vtt) et on est parti en direction du nord, avec une carte aussi précise que d'habitude.
Pendant la balade, on a traversé de nombreux villages authentiques et longé des kilomètres de rizières et de champs de maïs, le tout entre lac et montagnes. Magique, et on était vraiment dépaysé ! On a d'ailleurs parfois un peu dérivé de la route principale pour se retrouver dans des petite ruelles où dans des champs, et on était bien content d'avoir des vtt ^^. On s'est arrêté pour manger dans un restaurant typique de la ville de Shaping, dans une cour, sous l'ombre d'une pergola, et la bière made in Dali a fait beaucoup de bien :).
En chemin, on a rencontré une chinoise qui faisait le tour de Chine à vélo, et avec qui on a roulé une vingtaine de kilomètres en discutant de nos différents voyages (elle parlait anglais). C'était très sympa :).
Comme points notables sur la route, le petit temple Hongshan, le village de Shuanglang et la micro-île (hébergeant tout de même un temple !) de Xiao Putuo Dao.
Arrivés au sud-est du lac, après environs 80km de vélo (effectués en 6h30 comprenant la pause resto de 13h), nous avons décidé de prendre un bateau pour nous ramener à Dali, juste en face de l'autre côté du lac, et ainsi se séparer de notre amie chinoise qui elle finissait le tour à vélo (il restait une quarantaine de kilomètres, chapeau !).
Par contre on s'est pas mal fait arnaqué, car on a dû payer l'entrée du temple (Tian Jing Si) pour rejoindre l'embarcadère, puis repayer pour le bateau un tarif plus élevé que celui annoncé à l'entrée du temple. Mais bon, comme c'était un des derniers bateaux, on n'a pas trop eu le temps de négocier, et on s'en est sorti pour 15€ à deux pour 30 minutes de bateau, donc c'est pas pire. Par contre les 5 derniers kilomètres le vélo pour aller du port à chez nous ont été particulièrement difficiles ^^.
Au final très bonne journée, paysages magnifiques, temps splendide, et on était bien cuit à la fin (dans tous les sens du terme...^^).
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Comme d'habitude, en s'écartant de 50 mètres des rues principales, on peut trouver un petit marché local plein de charme vendant fruits, légumes, viandes et poissons. Et après la mosquée chinoise de Xi'an, on a trouvé l'église chinoise de Dali. Nice.
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