Nanjing
Ce week-end, petit tour vers Nanjing, ancienne capitale chinoise (entre 900 et 1600 et entre 1912 et 1949), située à 300km au nord de Shanghai et comptant près de 8 millions d’habitants. Pour y aller, pas de train de nuit, mais le Bullet train qui parcourt la distance en 1h30, donc plutôt pratique. On devait y aller à deux, mais le deuxième ayant raté le train, je me suis retrouvé tout seul -_-'. J'ai de ce fait pu tester le fait qu'après quatre mois en Chine, on peut trouver des connaissances de connaissance un peu partout. Bilan très bonne soirée à Nanjing le vendredi soir (même si je ne me souviens plus de tous les détails....^^).
Le lendemain, après avoir récupéré l'autre moitié Shanghaienne de l'équipe, vers midi, nous sommes partis en direction du mémorial du massacre de Nanjing, mémorial érigé en souvenir des 300000 chinois tués pendant l'occupation japonaise de la ville en décembre 1937. Visite intéressante car nous n'avions jamais entendu parler de ces atrocités commises par les japonais sur la population pour faire plier la Chine (corps brûlés, décapitations, enterrement de personnes vivantes...).
Néanmoins, on a l'impression qu'ils en font un peu trop, et on a un peu du mal à leur faire 100% confiance quand ils annoncent que certaines personnes essaient d'effacer cet événement de l'histoire, et qu'ils proclame dans la salle suivante que la Chine a finalement vaincu le Japon grâce à sa bravoure en août 1945...
On peut tout de même noter que c'était une belle ode à la paix et une dénonciation de la guerre sous toutes ses formes (mais encore une fois en inadéquation avec la politique d'armement actuelle de la Chine).
L'après-midi, on s'est orienté vers différents petits parcs de la ville (accessibles facilement en métro ou en taxi), comme les ruines du palais Ming de Xihuamen (il ne restait vraiment pas grand-chose) et la colline de Jinhua. La deuxième offrait une belle vue sur le lac, mais comme trop de brume tue la brume, ce n’était pas fou.
Le soir, on s'est promené autour de notre auberge, situé dans la vieille ville, et avons été assez surpris de découvrir plusieurs rues piétonnes animées aux alentours du temple de Confucius. Nous sommes aussi tombés par hasard sur le Zhanyuan Garden, et comme il affichait 5A (la note maximale du ministère du tourisme chinois), nous nous sommes faits un devoir de le visiter, et ça valait plutôt pas mal le coup (avec en guest stars un défilé de chinois se faisant prendre en photos devant un spectacle de danse traditionnelle :p). On a pu aussi rencontrer pour la première fois les fameux pousse-pousse chinois, mais qui sont hélas en voie de disparition…
Le lendemain, direction Zhongshan, ce qui veut dire littéralement montagne du milieu. Et effectivement cette montagne qui occupe tout de même une surface de 40 km2 était posée en plein milieu de la ville ! On a pu y voir l'impressionnant mausolée de Sun Yat-sen, premier président chinois et père de la Chine moderne. Mais n'étant pas du même bord politique que Mao, il est présenté ici comme docteur et non président... dans tous les cas, ça vaut le détour. On peut noter sa statue funéraire made in Paris datant de 1930.
On s'est ensuite perdu dans la forêt pour rejoindre le temple et la pagode de Linggu, qui donnait une bonne vue sur la montagne et la ville, mais encore une fois trop de brume. On pourra noter deux tombeaux de forme ronde qui passaient par là et de jolies statues de porte-stèle-tortues.
Pour finir, nous sommes tranquillement redescendu à pied de la montagne, avons pris le métro qui passait par là et sommes arrivés à la gare une heure en avance (trop rapide -_-'). Ça nous a laissé le temps de nous balader autour et de profiter de la vue sur le lac et les buildings au fond.
Côté rapport d'étonnement, on pourra noter que le métro est identique à celui de Shanghai (mêmes rames, mêmes stations) à part qu'ils utilisent des jetons à la place des tickets !
Dans la foulée, je ne reviendrai pas sur les taxis qui ont un écriteau rouge quand ils sont libres et vert quand ils sont occupés, mais un peu sur les passages piétons qui annoncent en chinois "le feu est rouge, ne traversez pas". Ça part d'une bonne attention, mais à un croisement, il y a toujours un des deux passages qui est rouge, donc ça parle en permanence (et des fois ça fait même des canons -_-').
Sinon à part ça, pour un week-end organisé complètement à l'arrache (pas de guide, juste une carte touristique de la ville), c'était plutôt calé !
Côté Shanghai, je me posais la question de ce que j'allais faire de mon vélo en partant, et bien la question est résolue, le vélo étant tout simplement parti en vacances ce week-end -_-'. Il faut voir le point positif, ça va me faire de la marche à pied pour la dernière semaine...
Toujours sur le campus, j'ai découvert une pratique qui a remonté les chinois dans mon estime : un soir à 20h40, alors que j'attendais le car pour rentrer chez moi, ledit car s'est retrouvé plein. Pas de chance, c'était le dernier. Mais alors que je commençais à penser à l'heure et demie de transport en commun pour rentrer chez moi, on m'a gentiment dirigé vers une voiture garée à côté qui m'a emmené (avec deux autre malchanceux comme moi) à destination en 20 minutes, et ce gratuitement (il m'a même offert un ventilateur USB de l'université ^^). Donc +1 pour la Chine.
Et pour finir anecdote intéressante : il est possible de se retrouver à un carrefour que l'on veut traverser avec les deux feus piétons au rouge (en France ça alterne un sur deux). A ce moment-là, ça veut tout simplement dire qu'il faut traverser en diagonale. Nice ^^.
Je vous dis à la semaine prochaine, avec au programme quatre jour de folie à Hong Kong !
Bises à tous !
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