Emeishan - 2ème jour

Submitted by qperceval on Fri, 09/14/2012 - 20:13

Dimanche 29 juillet.

Alors qu'on pensait pouvoir dormir tranquille du fait de notre chambre privée, on a appris que les murs en tôle n'arrêtaient malheureusement pas les voix des chinois. On a ainsi été réveillé à 3h et 4h30 par des groupes se promenant dans le monastère comme si c'était l'heure spécialement prévue pour -_-'. On s'est finalement levé à 6h30 afin de partir à l'assaut du sommet de la montagne (il nous restait un peu plus de 1000 mètres de dénivelé à gravir). Décollage à 7h20 après contemplation du lever de soleil depuis la terrasse du monastère et petit dej rapide devant. Le cadre était idéal pour ce début de journée : un grand ciel bleu sans un seul nuage au-dessus de nous, des montagnes et des forêts tout autour, des singes derrière (en position depuis 6h), et un escalier infini devant. Le trajet était qualifié de "plus facile" par le routard car il y avait seulement 500m de dénivelé pour 9km de marche, mais en fait ça attaquait sévèrement avec près de 700m d'un coup (!) avant de redescendre tranquillement vers Jieyin Palace, à 2540m d'altitude.

À l'approche du palais, le nombre de touriste au m2 a été multiplié par 20 du faîte de la présence d'une gare de bus à proximité -_-'. Heureusement, ça c'est un peu calmé quand on est arrivé à la gare des téléphériques (enfin, il n'y avait qu'un seul téléphérique, l'autre c'était une télécabine), et on a pu respirer un peu ^^. Là, on a fait deux groupes : un qui prenait la benne pour parcourir les 500 derniers mètres, et l'autre qui les gravissait à pied (il faut dire que c'était sacrément raide. Mais ce coup-ci, contrairement à Huashan, c'est le groupe piéton qui a gagné à plat de couture avec un temps de 55 minutes contre 2h10. Mais il y avait un troisième participant imprévu à la course : les nuages. Et ce sont eux qui ont gagné, car quand on est arrivé au sommet (il était tout juste 10h) tout se couvrait. Heureusement, il restait un petit bout de ciel bleu qui nous a permis de voir le mont GonggaShan (7556m d'altitude à 300km de là !) et de faire de belles photos du Bouddha d'Or, magnifique statue de 48 mètres trônant au sommet du pic. Par contre dès 10h30, comme prédit par le routard (c'est mieux que la bible ^^), le sommet était entièrement pris dans la brume. On peut noter la présence de deux temples à côté du bouddha (un doré et un argenté), assez joli de l'extérieur mais qui donnaient l'impression d'être en plastique dès qu'on se rapprochait.

Une fois l'équipe reformée, on a pu entamer la descente, mais en passant tout d'abord par la case saucisse, la spécialité du lieu. Pour visualiser la bête, prenez une grosse chippo marque 1, blindez la de piment, et voilà le résultat... ce n’était pas fameux ^^.
On s'est finalement offert un vrai chao fan à la gare des bus, avant de poursuivre notre descente en direction de la zone sud de la montagne. En chemin, on est repassé par le monastère où nous avions dormi, qui était maintenant entièrement baigné dans la brume. Avec ses longs couloirs et les singes qui se baladaient à l'intérieur, ça donnait un décor assez mystique, parfait pour une partie de lasergame :).

Un peu plus bas, on a pris la route du sud en direction du temple de Hongchunping, que nous avons rejoint en 3h. Sur la route, (il y avait de moins en moins de brume au fur et à mesure que nous descendions), on a pu contempler d'épaisses et superbes forêts, de belles falaises et de petits ruisseaux, tout en croisant au maximum une cinquantaine de personne (histoire de ne pas dire qu'on était tout seul). De plus, pas d'insectes dans ce secteur-là, donc c'était plutôt calme, et c'est tant mieux :). Les derniers kilomètres depuis le temple de Xianfeng ont été particulièrement rudes avec un escalier quasi-continu de 700 mètres de hauteur.
Nous sommes finalement arrivés à 18h, où nous avons eu droit à un accueil chaleureux et une chambre au même prix que précédemment. Quant au repas (on y est allé dès 18h30 :p), on a pu très bien manger pour 25 kuais chacun, donc le top.

Dans la chambre, on n'a pas eu droit à une couverture chauffante, mais on a eu une moustiquaire à la place. De toutes façons, à cette altitude (1120m) il faisait bien plus chaud ^^. On a aussi pu expérimenter les douches collectives, assez particulier ^^.

Au final, alors que je pensai que ce serai une journée tranquille, on a quand même totalisé 9h de marche, 1300m de dénivelé positif, 2200m de dénivelé négatif, et, d'après la carte, parcouru près de 50 kilomètres (mais ce chiffre me semble un peu surévalué, d'expérience je dirais une trentaine), ce qui fait tout de même une bonne journée :).

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